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Schots Doorstops Guide

Choosing the right doorstop or door stopper starts with three things: the type of door, the surface it will be fixed to, and how far the door swings before it hits something. Wall mount doorstops project 50-100 mm from the wall surface and suit most standard Australian internal doors. Floor mount doorstops sit 25-40 mm above the floor and suit heavier doors or positions where wall fixing is not practical. Magnetic doorstops hold the door open at a fixed position and are the right choice for high-traffic rooms where the door needs to stay open hands-free.

This guide covers every type, how to fit each one, what a Taylor spindle does, and how to match the finish to your door handles.

Types of Doorstops

Doorstops in 2026 come in 5 main types based on where they are fixed and how they work:

  1. Wall mount doorstops (fixed to the wall or skirting board; most common type)
  2. Floor mount doorstops (fixed to the floor; suits heavier doors and tile or timber floors)
  3. Magnetic doorstops (hold the door open at a fixed position; suit high-traffic areas)
  4. Hook doorstops (wall-mounted hook catches a door handle or ring; holds door open)
  5. Concealed fix doorstops (fixing screws hidden behind the stop face; cleaner finish)

Wall Mount Doorstops

Wall mount doorstops are the most common type in Australian homes. They fix to the wall or skirting board and stop the door before it hits the wall. They come in two main formats: standard (with visible screws) and concealed fix (where the screws are hidden behind the stop face).

The standard wall mount doorstop projects 50-65 mm from the wall surface. The 10 cm (100 mm) version suits doors where the skirting board or door trim sits out from the wall surface, creating a bigger gap for the stop to bridge.

  • Projection length (standard): 50-65 mm from wall surface
  • Projection length (extended / 10 cm version): 100 mm from wall surface
  • Base diameter: 20-32 mm depending on style
  • Fixing: Single central screw into wall stud, masonry anchor, or skirting board
  • Best for: Standard internal doors on plasterboard walls or skirting boards where there is enough wall clearance for the door to stop cleanly
  • Note: Use the 10 cm version when the skirting board or door trim sits out further than normal from the wall

Where to Position a Wall Mount Doorstop

For most internal doors, mount the stop at skirting board height - 70-90 mm from the floor - on the wall behind the door. This keeps the stop out of the way of foot traffic.

Side to side, place the stop about one-third of the door width in from the hinge side. This means the door hits the solid panel area rather than the edge, which handles the impact better.

Positioning tip: Open the door fully to the desired stop position, then hold the doorstop against the wall where the door face makes contact. Mark the fixing point, close the door, then drill and fix. This ensures the stop is exactly where the door meets the wall rather than guessing the position with the door closed.

Floor Mount Doorstops

Floor mount doorstops screw into the floor and stop the door before it hits the wall. They work best for heavy solid timber or solid-core doors or spots where you cannot fix to the wall behind the door - for example, if there is plumbing or wiring in the wall there.

Floor stops come in round and oval shapes. The stop must be taller than the gap under the door or the door will swing right over it. Most internal doors in Australia have a 10-15 mm gap at the bottom, so a stop of 25-40 mm height will catch the door face cleanly.

  • Height: 25-40 mm above floor; must exceed the door undercut clearance (typically 10-15 mm for internal doors)
  • Base diameter (round): 30-50 mm
  • Base dimensions (oval): Typically 40 x 25 mm
  • Fixing: Central screw into floor; use a masonry anchor for tiled concrete floors
  • Best for: Solid-core doors, heavy doors, positions where the wall behind the door cannot be fixed to
  • Note: Position the stop 35-40 mm in from the door edge so the door face (not the edge) hits the stop. The edge hitting a floor stop directly can damage the door over time.

Where to Position a Floor Mount Doorstop

Open the door to the position you want it to stop. Mark the floor where the door face sits, at least 35-40 mm in from the door edge. Fix the stop at that mark so the door face hits the rubber tip cleanly.

For timber floors, use the supplied screw. For tiled or concrete floors, use a masonry drill bit and anchor so the screw does not pull out when the door hits the stop.

Magnetic Doorstops

Magnetic doorstops hold the door open using a magnet. They have two parts: a body that fixes to the floor or wall, and a small metal plate that fixes to the door face. When the door swings open and the plate touches the magnet, the door stays open until you pull it closed.

They are ideal for kitchens, laundries, and hallways where you need the door to stay open while carrying things through. Check that the hold strength suits your door - very heavy doors may need a floor mount magnetic stop rather than a wall mount.

  • Body height: 30-58 mm above floor for floor mount; 80-100 mm clearance from mounting point for wall mount adjustable versions
  • Body diameter: 35-50 mm
  • Strike plate: Supplied; mounts to the door face at the position that aligns with the magnet when the door is open
  • Hold strength: Suitable for light to medium weight doors; confirm the product spec for heavy solid-core doors
  • Fixing: Floor mount or wall/skirting board mount; single central screw with anchor
  • Best for: High-traffic rooms, laundries, kitchens, open-plan areas where the door needs to hold open without manual intervention

How to Position a Magnetic Doorstop

Fix the magnetic body first. Then open the door to the position you want it to stay, hold the metal plate against the door face where it lines up with the magnet, and mark the spot. Fix the plate to the door at that mark.

The plate must sit flat against the magnet, not at an angle, or the hold will be weak. If the door swings past the magnet without catching, move the body further from the wall until the two parts meet squarely.

Hook Doorstops

Hook doorstops are wall-mounted hooks that catch a ring on the door and hold it open. They look more decorative than a standard rubber stop and suit Federation, Victorian, and traditional homes where the doorstop is meant to be seen.

Fix the hook at 900-1000 mm from the floor so it lines up with a ring on the door face. Hook stops only hold the door open once the ring is manually hooked - they do not stop the door from swinging too far on its own.

  • Hook height from floor: 900-1000 mm (to align with door handle or ring)
  • Projection from wall: 40-70 mm
  • Best for: Heritage, Federation, Victorian, and traditional interiors where the doorstop is a visible design feature
  • Note: Hook stops only work when the ring is manually engaged. If you also need to stop the door from swinging too far, add a floor or wall stop on the same door.

Which Doorstop Type Suits Your Door?

Use this table to match the right doorstop type to your door before buying.

Situation Best Doorstop Type Key Dimension to Check
Standard internal door, plasterboard wall Wall mount (concealed fix) Projection length: 50-65 mm standard; 100 mm if deep skirting or architrave is in the way
Heavy solid-core door Floor mount (round or oval) Height must exceed door undercut clearance (10-15 mm); aim for 30-40 mm height
High-traffic room; door needs to stay open Magnetic doorstop Confirm hold strength rating suits the door weight; align strike plate face-on to magnet
Heritage or traditional interior; stop is visible Hook doorstop Mount at 900-1000 mm height to align with door handle or ring position
Tiled floor; wall fixing not possible Floor mount with masonry anchor Use masonry drill bit and appropriate anchor; do not use a standard timber screw in tile or concrete
Clean minimal finish; no visible screw heads Concealed fix wall mount Fixing screw hidden behind stop face; standard and 10 cm projection lengths available

What Is a Taylor Spindle?

A Taylor spindle (also called a dummy spindle) converts a door knob from a turning latch handle into a fixed pull handle. It replaces the square rod that runs through the door so the knob is locked in place and cannot turn.

They are used on wardrobe and cupboard doors with a roller catch or touch latch, where the knob only needs to be pulled to open the door. Without a Taylor spindle, a decorative knob on a wardrobe door will spin freely but do nothing.

  • Function: Converts a door knob from an operating latch handle to a fixed dummy pull handle
  • Compatible with: Any standard door knob that uses a 7.6 mm square spindle hole
  • Where used: Wardrobe doors, linen presses, cupboard doors, roller catch doors, touch latch doors
  • Price: $8.25 - the most affordable item in the hardware range and often overlooked in a renovation budget
  • Note: A Taylor spindle does not lock the door. It just stops the knob from turning. If you need the door to lock, fit a cabinet lock instead.
When you need a Taylor spindle: If you have a door knob on a wardrobe or cupboard and the knob spins freely without doing anything useful, the door either needs a latch mechanism (a roller catch or magnetic catch behind the door) or a Taylor spindle to fix the knob in position. Most wardrobe builds use a roller catch behind the door and a Taylor spindle to lock the decorative knob as a pull.

Matching Doorstop Finishes to Your Hardware

A doorstop is a small fitting but it is visible every time the door opens, and it shares wall or floor space with your skirting boards, door handles, and hinges. Matching finishes across all your door hardware is the easiest way to make a renovation look considered rather than pieced together.

If your door handles and hinges are in matte black, use a matte black doorstop. If your handles are in antique brass, match with an antique brass stop. Mixing a chrome doorstop with antique brass handles on the same door looks inconsistent, even though both are functional.

Finish Suits Match With
Matte Black Contemporary, coastal, industrial interiors Matte black door handles, hinges, and cabinet hardware
Antique Brass Hamptons, traditional, Federation, heritage interiors Antique brass or brushed brass door handles and hinges
Polished Brass Victorian, traditional, formal interiors Polished brass or signature brass door and cabinet hardware
Chrome / Satin Chrome Contemporary, Scandinavian, mid-century interiors Chrome or satin nickel door handles, hinges, and tapware
Antique Copper Vintage, industrial, eclectic interiors Copper or bronze hardware throughout the same space

Key Things to Check Before Buying a Doorstop

  1. Check your floor type before choosing a fixing method.
    Timber floors take a standard screw. Tiled floors and concrete need a masonry drill bit and anchor first or you will crack the tile. Use a diamond or carbide tile bit at slow speed, then insert an anchor before the screw.
  2. Measure the door undercut before choosing a floor stop height.
    Most Australian internal doors have a 10-15 mm gap at the bottom. Your floor stop must be taller than that gap or the door will swing right over it. A stop height of 30-40 mm sits clear of the gap and catches the door face reliably.
  3. Use the 10 cm wall stop where the skirting board or architrave creates a gap.
    If the skirting board or door trim sits out from the wall surface, a standard 50-65 mm stop may not reach the door. Measure from the wall to the back of the door at the contact point first - if it is more than 65 mm, use the 10 cm version.
  4. Match the finish to all other hardware on the same door.
    The doorstop, hinges, and handles on the same door should all be in the same finish. An antique brass handle with a chrome doorstop looks mismatched. Pick one finish and use it across everything on that door.
  5. Use a Taylor spindle when fitting knobs to wardrobes and cupboards.
    A door knob on a wardrobe needs a Taylor spindle to lock it in place as a pull handle. Without one the knob spins freely and does nothing. At $8.25 each they are easy to forget but annoying to fix after all the knobs are already fitted.

Suggested Doorstops and Taylor Spindles

WALL MOUNT - CONCEALED FIX

Concealed Fix Wall Mount Door Stop, Antique Brass

$36.00

  • Wall mount doorstop with concealed fixing screw; the screw head is hidden behind the face of the stop for a clean finish with no visible fixings on the wall
  • Standard projection length suited to most Australian internal doors on plasterboard walls; mount at skirting board height (70-90 mm from floor) behind the door for best clearance from foot traffic
  • Antique brass finish on solid brass; suits Hamptons, traditional, Federation, and heritage-style Australian interiors; match with antique brass door handles and hinges for a consistent finish
  • Also available in polished brass ($28), satin chrome ($32), chrome ($32), and antique copper ($36); choose the finish that matches your existing door hardware
WALL MOUNT - 10CM EXTENDED PROJECTION

10cm Concealed Fix Wall Mount Door Stop, Matte Black

$37.00

  • 100 mm projection wall mount stop in matte black; the extended projection suits doors with a deep skirting board, door architrave, or wall return that a standard 50-65 mm stop would not reach past
  • Concealed fix; no visible screw heads on the wall face; suits contemporary, coastal, and industrial interiors where matte black hardware is used throughout
  • Measure from the wall surface to the back of the door at the contact point before ordering; if that distance exceeds 65 mm, this 100 mm version is the right choice
  • Also available in polished brass ($32), antique brass ($42); confirm which projection length you need before selecting a finish
FLOOR MOUNT

Floor Mounted Door Stop, Antique Brass

$42.00

  • Round floor mount doorstop in antique brass; fixed directly into the floor at the point where the door face reaches at full swing; height exceeds the standard Australian door undercut clearance of 10-15 mm to ensure contact with the door face
  • Suited to solid-core and heavier internal doors where a wall mount stop would not reliably absorb impact; also suits positions where the wall behind the door cannot be fixed to due to plumbing, wiring, or a wall cavity
  • Fix into timber or engineered timber floors with the supplied screw; for tiled or polished concrete floors, use a masonry drill bit and anchor (not supplied) before inserting the fixing screw
  • Also available in polished brass ($32); antique brass suits heritage and Hamptons interiors; polished brass suits Victorian and formal traditional styles
MAGNETIC DOOR STOP

Magnetic Door Stop, Matte Black

$45.00

  • Magnetic floor mount doorstop in matte black; includes the magnetic body and a metal strike plate that fixes to the door face; door holds open automatically when the strike plate contacts the magnet
  • Suited to high-traffic rooms - kitchens, laundries, hallways - where the door needs to stay open hands-free while carrying items through; releases with a firm pull on the door
  • Strike plate must align face-on with the magnet for full hold strength; fix the body first, then open the door to the hold position and mark the strike plate location before fixing to the door face
  • Also available in antique brass ($51) and polished brass ($39); matte black suits contemporary and coastal interiors; brass finishes suit Hamptons and traditional styles
HOOK DOOR STOP

Wall Mount Hook Door Stop, Antique Brass

$55.00

  • Wall-mounted hook in antique brass that catches a ring or loop on the door face to hold the door open; a more decorative option than a rubber-tipped stop and suits interiors where the doorstop is a visible design feature
  • Mount at 900-1000 mm from the floor to align with a door handle ring or a separately fitted door ring on the door face; does not prevent overswing and does not contact the door automatically - the ring must be manually engaged
  • Solid brass in antique brass finish; suits Federation, Victorian, heritage, Hamptons, and traditional-style Australian homes; pairs with antique brass door handles and hinges throughout the same space
  • Note: hook stops hold the door open only; use a wall or floor stop as well if overswing protection is also needed on the same door
TAYLOR SPINDLE

Taylor Spindle (Converts Knobs to Dummy Sets)

$8.25

  • Converts a standard door knob from a functioning latch handle to a fixed dummy pull handle; replaces the square spindle through the door so the knob is locked in position and cannot turn
  • Used on wardrobe doors, linen press doors, and cupboard doors fitted with a roller catch, magnetic catch, or touch latch where the knob only needs to be pulled to open the door
  • Compatible with any standard door knob using a 7.6 mm square spindle hole; does not add locking function - use a cabinet lock or touch latch if locking is required
  • At $8.25 each, one of the lowest-cost items in the hardware range; order one per knob fitting for every wardrobe and cupboard door in the renovation to avoid having to re-order mid-install

Frequently Asked Questions About Doorstops

What size doorstop do I need for an internal door?

A standard wall mount doorstop with a 50-65 mm projection suits most Australian internal doors on plasterboard walls. If the wall has a deep skirting board or architrave that increases the gap between the wall and the door at the contact point, use the 10 cm (100 mm) projection version instead. For floor mounting, choose a stop with a height of 30-40 mm to ensure it exceeds the standard 10-15 mm door undercut clearance.

Where should a doorstop be positioned on the wall?

Fix wall stops at skirting board height - 70-90 mm from the floor - on the wall behind the door. Position them about one-third of the door width in from the hinge side so the door face hits the stop cleanly.

How do I fix a doorstop to a tiled floor?

Use a diamond or carbide tile drill bit at slow speed. Insert a masonry anchor into the hole, then fix the doorstop screw into the anchor. Do not use a standard timber screw or a hammer drill on tile without the right bit - both will crack it.

What is the difference between a Taylor spindle and a regular spindle?

A regular spindle turns when the knob turns to operate the latch. A Taylor spindle locks the knob so it cannot turn and acts as a pull handle only. Use a Taylor spindle on any door where the knob is for pulling only, such as wardrobes with a roller or touch latch.

Can I use a magnetic doorstop on a heavy door?

Magnetic stops suit light to medium weight doors. Very heavy doors - typically over 35 kg - can pull away from the magnet in a draught. For heavy doors, use a floor mount stop instead as it does not depend on magnet strength.

What is the best doorstop for a heavy door?

A floor mount doorstop is the best choice for heavy solid-core or timber doors. It screws into the floor and can absorb more impact than a wall mount stop, which relies on the wall surface to hold against repeated force. Choose a height of 30-40 mm and position it 35-40 mm in from the door edge so the door face hits the rubber tip cleanly.

Do I need a doorstop on every door?

Any door that can swing back and hit a wall, skirting board, or furniture needs a doorstop. This includes bedroom doors, wardrobe doors, bathroom doors, and laundry doors. If there is any chance the handle or door edge can reach the wall, fit a stop.

 

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